Medellín City Guide: Where to Eat, Stay, and Spend Time in Colombia's Second City

Colombia’s second city might be squeezed into a long, green Andean valley with mountains rising high each side but it fits a lot into a small space. Blessed with year-round mild weather, Medellín is defined less by its past than its rhythm. Slow mornings on a terrace sipping locally grown coffee, afternoons exploring the art and artisans of the city and evenings enjoying rooftop cocktails. 

This isn’t simply a city to pass through but one to slow down and truly enjoy whether you base yourself in the city or just outside in the stunning countryside of Antioquia.

While Colombia is often tarnished with the brush of its past, its Narcos associations are very much history at this point. Today, Medellín is very much looking forward and at an exciting point when it comes to newness whether that’s contemporary art, cocktails or culture. 

Here Paisa locals, the people of the wider Antioquia region in which Medellín is located, are famously warm, welcoming and very proud of the city they call home. Interacting with locals and using guides is a surefire way to enrich your experience of Medellín. 

Known as the ‘City of Eternal Spring,’ Medellín’s year-round mild climate shapes the days here which are spent between the city’s plethora of green spaces, terraces and rooftop spots.

Despite Pablo Escobar’s death in 1993 and the 2016 peace agreement, Colombia often still gets a bad rep when it comes to safety. While this is largely unwarranted, much like the majority of Latin America’s large cities, there are some things to take into account while visiting.

The Colombians have a phrase “No dar papaya” which translates literally to “don’t give papaya” but essentially means don’t give people an opportunity to take advantage of you. We all know the drill: don’t leave your bag hanging off a chair, your phone out on the table or wear your most obviously expensive jewellery. 

In general, Uber or Cabify are better than street taxis and it’s best to avoid certain areas like Central La Candelaria and Plaza Botero alone at night. Using a guide can be one of the most rewarding ways to dive deeper into this amazing city and feel reassured in the process. 

Whether it’s design-led hotels, local terraces or cultural institutions, Colombia’s second city is made up of a number of distinct neighbourhoods each with their own merits. 

This upscale pocket of town south of the historic centre is lined with leafy streets and home to the biggest concentration of luxury hotels and contemporary restaurants. A great base for a Medellín trip or evening spent hopping between cocktail bars.

Flatter, greener and more residential than El Poblado, this neighbourhood just west of the historic centre is a relaxed place to spend some time. Less touristy than El Poblado, head to the area around Primer Parque and Segundo Parque de Laureles for a wander and to soak up some local terrace culture. 

The historic centre known as La Candelaria is where busy streets meet storied buildings and the city’s important cultural institutions are located. Here you find Plaza Botero dotted with 23 sculptures from the country’s most famous artist, Fernando Botero alongside the city’s main museum, Museo de Antioquia. 

This vibrant and colourful neighbourhood was once one of the city’s most dangerous areas but today tells a fascinating story of social and urban transformation. Visit here to see the famous outdoor escalators and incredible street art and join a guided tour to learn more about the area’s history. 

Just outside the centre of the main city, Envigado has a more suburban or affluent small town feeling with its historic centre, plazas and collection of independent restaurants and shops. A great spot to spend time to experience a slice of local life. 

Medellín isn’t a city with a list of sites to tick off a list, instead it is a place best explored via experiences, especially ones with a local by your side. 

To get a grip on the city and its history, the Museo Casa de la Memoria is a great start in understanding the recent backstory to Medellín. A walking tour with a local can expand your knowledge further and can be especially beneficial to explore Comuna 13, the hillside neighborhood which has gone through huge change and is known for its famous outdoor escalators and vibrant street art. 

From a cultural perspective, Museo de Antioquia with the world’s largest collection of Botero’s work is a spot not to be missed. Moreover, Museo de Arte Moderno de Medellín is a go-to for contemporary art while the area of Perpetuo Socorro is full of studios and workshops in former industrial spaces. 

Award-winning for its green credentials, the city has an abundance of nature-filled spaces to enjoy throughout the city. Both Medellín’s beautiful Botanical Garden and Parque Arví, a large protected natural area in the mountains above the city, are well worth an afternoon. 

Surrounded by mountains and countryside peppered with pretty pueblos and coffee plantations, there is an array of excellent day trips that can be made while staying in Medellín.

The colourful lakeside town of Guatape is the most well-known trip for a reason with its elaborately decorated façades. Nearby you can also visit Piedra del Peñol, a gigantic granite rock which you can climb for fantastic views of the surrounding landscape. 

Jardín is also a lovely option for something a little more off-the-beaten track. This colourful town with colonial architecture is surrounded by coffee country and a great place to visit a coffee finca or horseback ride to local waterfalls. Meanwhile Santa Fe has a different architecture with whitewashed buildings and cobbled streets and is known for its Puente de Occidente, an impressive 19th-century suspension bridge.

‘City of Eternal Spring’  or ‘Ciudad de la Eterna Primavera’ is Medellín’s long-established nickname for good reason and there really is no bad time to visit with temperatures sitting around 21 to 24 degrees Celsius year-round. There are some slightly rainier windows (April to May and September to November) but this doesn’t disrupt trips. We recommend December to March for the driest weather or early August when the city comes alive with flower-filled parades, music and celebrations of Antioquian culture for the Feria de las Flores. 

While the individual neighbourhoods of Medellín tend to be walkable, getting across town demands transport. Uber or Cabify are recommended over street cabs or for total ease, Maven can organise a driver for your stay in Medellín. Or hop on the Metro and Metrocable which is famously clean and well-maintained.