The Maven Guide to Puerto Escondido

No longer simply a good surf spot, in recent years the Pacific coast town of Puerto Escondido has evolved into a destination for design, food and wellness. Still undeveloped compared to its Caribbean neighbours, there’s never been a better time to make a trip to this Oaxaca spot on the up.

In Puerto Escondido you find both powerful waves crashing on long, sandy beaches and tucked away coves trimmed with palm trees. Meanwhile, shacks sling out the best fish tacos of your life and Michelin-approved restaurants serve up sophisticated takes on Oaxacan cuisine. 

We love this town and all its contrasts and have spent much time exploring its many corners. This is our guide to how to make the most of your time there. 

Located on Mexico’s Pacific coast a few hours south from the city of Oaxaca, Puerto Escondido sits in between a string of barefoot beach towns including Mazunte and Zipolite to the south and Chacahua to the north.

Puerto Escondido itself is a collection of neighborhoods spread out over a series of connected beaches, each with their own distinct feel. There’s the old town with its working port, local atmosphere and the spectacular Carrizalillo cove while just north of here you will find Rinconada with more beaches and a calmer, family-friendly energy. 

Heading south of the old town, you meet Playa Zicatela, Puerto Escondido’s main beach which stretches out over three kilometers with big surf waves crashing on the shore and cafes and surf shops close behind. Meanwhile, at the southern end of Playa Zicatela, there’s the beachside neighborhood of La Punta with its sandy streets, laidback vibe and excellent food scene. 

At its heart, Puerto Escondido is a beach town with the majority of travellers coming here for surfing the Pacific waves or relaxing in the picturesque coves. The beaches here vary hugely in their offering so choosing carefully is key. After spending extensive time here, we have a solid list of go-to spots that we always return to and recommend to Maven guests. 

Climbing down the steps to this cove for the first time normally prompts a gasp. This horseshoe-shaped bay wrapped by lush green cliffs and filled with turquoise water is truly spectacular. With relatively calm water it’s great for swimming and beginner surfing or hire a lounger and spend the day relaxing horizontal. 

Although not quite as aesthetically striking as Playa Carrizalillo, Playa Manzanillo is another lovely calm cove option for swimming. Always less crowded than Carrizalillo, this smaller beach tends to feel more low-key and local. 

We couldn’t not mention Puerto Escondido’s most famous beach. This three kilometer stretch is where the pros come to surf so it’s definitely not a spot for swimming. However, it’s great for a morning or evening walk, or to sit back and simply watch the epic surfing from the shoreline. It also plays backdrop to some seriously good sunsets with a lively atmosphere each evening. Our favourite part is the southern end at La Punta with its excellent restaurants and bars. 

This wide golden sand beach stretches out over two kilometres north of Puerto Escondido’s old town. Wilder and much less developed than the south side of Puerto, its waves aren’t quite as epic as Zicatela but it’s still not a beach for swimming. Instead, it’s ideal for quiet walks and low-key sunsets as well as being the location for turtle releases. 

Puerto Escondido and its surrounding coastline has much more to offer beyond the beach whether it’s spotting dolphins out to sea, swimming in the bioluminescent water or visiting local art exhibitions. When you stay in a Maven Collection villa, our local concierge service can help arrange a big range of experience suited to your interests and mood. 

Watching a crowd of baby turtles make their break for freedom on the beach is a magical sight and one you can get involved with during the hatching season which runs July to December. Head to Playa Bacocho at sunset where local conservation group ViveMar protect eggs from poaching and then release baby turtles into the Pacific.

This part of Mexico is one of the places in the world where you can swim amongst bioluminescent water, a dazzling phenomenon caused by microscopic marine organisms. Travel to the closeby lagoon of Manialtepec at night and head out on a boat to swim in the glowing water.

Some of Puerto Escondido’s best wildlife is out to sea and best experienced from aboard a boat with excursions going out in search of dolphins, whales, turtles, manta rays and other marine life. Just check the seasons carefully, while dolphins can be spotted all-year round, whales can only be seen in winter (December to March). 

This non-profit contemporary-art foundation founded by Mexican artist Bosco Sodi and designed by Tadao Ando is a super inspiring space to visit. Stop by to see the changing programme of contemporary art exhibitions set amongst the stunning minimalist architecture and lush gardens. 

The food scene in Puerto Escondido is one of its biggest draws. While the exciting mix of flavours that make up the coastal take on Oaxacan cuisine has long lured travellers, in recent years Puerto Escondido has also become one of Mexico’s most exciting contemporary culinary destinations. 

Ambitious Michelin-guide Almoraduz kicked things off a decade ago with its creative take on Oaxacan ingredients and a crop of notable restaurants have followed. There’s Atarraya where sophisticated cocktails and Mexican small plates are served up in a gorgeous garden and riotous Chicama with its modern Peruvian menu in La Punta. 

Mexican chefs from abroad are returning to their roots and bringing fresh energy with them. Take Fish Shack, a short-menu fish taco spot in La Punta set up by Patricio Sandoval who returned to Mexico from the US in the pandemic. Meanwhile, if it’s beer not cocktails that you’re after, Nodo Brewery has a fantastic range of artisanal craft brews. 

Beyond the more upscale restaurants in La Punta, there are plenty of places to sample simple and authentic dishes. In the old town, the Mercado Benito Juárez is excellent for traditional restaurants and comedors, especially at lunch. Head inside the market and follow your nose to a busy stand. Meanwhile, for a traditional no-frills Mexican breakfast, Lindo Oaxaca behind Zicatela beach is delicious. 

When it comes to where to stay, our favourite part of Puerto Escondido is the southern end of Zicatela with the sunset spot at Playa La Punta and the excellent array of restaurants and cocktail spots just behind. 

However, for something more tranquil, we also recommended staying outside of the town. Our spectacular villas are a destination themselves, designed by notable Mexican and Latin American architects and built around the jungle and Pacific views. Days here can be spent at the beach on your doorstep, relaxing in the array of outdoors areas or popping easily into town to enjoy all that Puerto Escondido has to offer. 

The best time to visit Puerto Escondido is during the dry season which runs from November through to April. While the most reliable of all the weather is from December to March, this is naturally the busiest time in town. 

The wet season which runs May to October doesn’t need to be avoided entirely. There tends to be rain showers each afternoon which means lush green landscapes and the finest beaches are much more quiet. 

If you’re in Puerto Escondido specifically for surfing, it’s important to note that the biggest swells run through the summer and early autumn. However, beginner surfers can find great waves throughout the year. 

Our favourite time in Puerto Escondido is the shoulder season (late October to early December, and April and May) when the weather is warm but the crowds are thinner and the town feels more local.